It was a little rough out there today. The winds were nearing thirty knots against us in driving rain with 5-10 foot seas. We plodded through it for six hours or so. I had to remind myself why we’re doing this in May. I have to say, the trip up the Inside Passage to Glacier Bay, AK last year was a lot more pacific than this trip is (on the Pacific). Every other day feels like we’re rounding Cape Caution. We have an extra day in the bank to spend when the weather forecast tells us it’s probably not smart to go out. We might have spent it today had we heard the forecast earlier than we did.
We had no VHF reception in Dixie Cove last night, so no knowledge of the weather, except the extended forecast from several days ago. When we were finally under way and could listen to the forecast tell us to expect 30-40kt winds, we were already out in it experiencing upper twenties. It’s just as well we didn’t know. We have two scheduled dates to make along the way: a potential crew pick up in Tofino and a marina reservation in Victoria, so it’s nice to save that extra day in our pocket.
Tomorrow should be more of the same, perhaps a little smoother and a little calmer. Once again, we won’t know until we’re out in it.
Thursday, June 1, 2017
Word on the Street - 5/30
It’s almost June, but it feels more like February today . It’s in the fifties with low overcast and the wind is somehow finding it’s way into this snug little cove. It's a good day for hot soup and a good book. Tomorrow we’ll have miles to make, but today it’s enough to stay warm.
We stopped at a small community called Walters Cove yesterday and filled our water tanks. We had our expectations up for hot showers and fresh produce, but once again, they aren’t in full swing yet. The store is open three days a week in the afternoon. We didn’t feel like waiting around several hours for it to open. The showers were available, but expensive. We could have rented a hotel room for the same price as three showers. So we filled our tanks and moved on. The word on the street is that it’ll be another month before these small towns shake off their winter lethargy and come to life again.
We stopped at a small community called Walters Cove yesterday and filled our water tanks. We had our expectations up for hot showers and fresh produce, but once again, they aren’t in full swing yet. The store is open three days a week in the afternoon. We didn’t feel like waiting around several hours for it to open. The showers were available, but expensive. We could have rented a hotel room for the same price as three showers. So we filled our tanks and moved on. The word on the street is that it’ll be another month before these small towns shake off their winter lethargy and come to life again.
A Sailing Day - 5/29
We’ve had very little sailing time in the last couple of weeks. The winds have been light, or on the nose, or fluky, or the seas have been too rough. The northwest coast in May is not a route that lends itself very well to making miles under sail; at least it hasn’t for us so far. I had thought it would be easier, given that the prevailing winds are blowing from the northwest and we’re heading southeast, but what we’ve seen has been mostly southwest. It’s against us, meaning we’d have to be endlessly tacking into it, and the westerly component means that if we run into trouble, the wind can drive us onto the rocks pretty quickly. With a crew that’s not very familiar with the boat, it feels risky to be running around on deck wrestling with the sails. So we’ve motored through the headwinds, light winds and rough seas, patiently waiting for easier conditions.
Today we were close to our intended anchorage in the Kashutl Inlet, crossing a large bay with no swell or chop and the sun was out, so we unfurled the sails and had some fun before heading in to anchor. It was a beautiful day for it.
Today we were close to our intended anchorage in the Kashutl Inlet, crossing a large bay with no swell or chop and the sun was out, so we unfurled the sails and had some fun before heading in to anchor. It was a beautiful day for it.
A day of Treats - 5/28
It was a short day today and we got a late start waiting for the fog to lift. Kevin whipped up a batch of French toast using the bread that Vi cooked last night. Both were awesome.
Before leaving I noticed that the depth meter was showing 5.0 feet, curious considering that the chart indicated a least depth of around twelve and that the boat draws about 6.3 feet. I guess the depth meter has a little offset. I was pretty sure that I set it up to indicate depth from the waterline and not depth under the keel. The latter is handy when you have several boats and don’t want to have to remember how deep the keel is on each boat. This is the only boat I own though, so I like it to show me depth of the water rather than depth under the keel. The charts show minimum depth, so it’s nice to have consistent numbers. Apparently it is doing neither very accurately at shallow depths. I have a hand held depth transponder used for reconnaissance in the dingy, but I didn’t think to use it to obtain a second opinion. Next time we’re in shallow water I’ll do that.
Our route today took us inside reefs, rocks and small islands. They afforded us some protection from the swell and with a light wind offering little chop, we enjoyed a smooth ride that only lasted a couple hours. The clouds were hanging low when we first arrived, but after taking a spin to shore in the dinghy, playing some Frisbee, and hiking a round for a while, the marine layer burned off and we were treated to sunshine. Vi also treated us to fried cakes made of potatoes and peas. A day of treats!
Before leaving I noticed that the depth meter was showing 5.0 feet, curious considering that the chart indicated a least depth of around twelve and that the boat draws about 6.3 feet. I guess the depth meter has a little offset. I was pretty sure that I set it up to indicate depth from the waterline and not depth under the keel. The latter is handy when you have several boats and don’t want to have to remember how deep the keel is on each boat. This is the only boat I own though, so I like it to show me depth of the water rather than depth under the keel. The charts show minimum depth, so it’s nice to have consistent numbers. Apparently it is doing neither very accurately at shallow depths. I have a hand held depth transponder used for reconnaissance in the dingy, but I didn’t think to use it to obtain a second opinion. Next time we’re in shallow water I’ll do that.
Our route today took us inside reefs, rocks and small islands. They afforded us some protection from the swell and with a light wind offering little chop, we enjoyed a smooth ride that only lasted a couple hours. The clouds were hanging low when we first arrived, but after taking a spin to shore in the dinghy, playing some Frisbee, and hiking a round for a while, the marine layer burned off and we were treated to sunshine. Vi also treated us to fried cakes made of potatoes and peas. A day of treats!
Around Cape Cook - 5/27
They said it could turn tropical after we rounded the Brooks Peninsula and they weren’t lying. There are no palm trees or bikini babes, but it’s warm enough that I donned shorts and took a plunge off the transom. I couldn’t talk the other two into it though. bwaaaak, bwak-bwak! It was refreshing, but cold enough to make me want to get out pronto - quite a bit cooler than Desolation Sound.
For the last several days, the forecasters have been predicting light winds and calmer seas for today, so we timed our push around Cape Cook for it. It worked out nicely. We’re on the south side now, tucked into Columbia Cove under spectacular blue skies and sunshine.
We stowed the dinghy on deck for the last several days to get us around the rougher sections, then re-inflated it when we got here. Kevin helped me mount the outboard and then Vi and I headed out to explore this lovely bay while Kevin stayed on board to enjoy some time to himself.
On our dinghy voyage, Vi and I conquered a small island in the middle of the bay and circumnavigated it on foot. The tide was high so it didn’t take very long. The bay also has a lot of floating log debris and some healthy kelp beds.
We passed another sailboat today! They were headed the other way and the first we’ve seen since passing a boat on the way to Bull Harbour more than a week ago.
We finished the last of the boat-made bread today, so Vi whipped up another loaf using the sourdough starter that Lavanya gave us. Three cheers for Vi and Lavanya! Tomorrow we have a short day to get to the West Nook of the Brunsby Islands.
For the last several days, the forecasters have been predicting light winds and calmer seas for today, so we timed our push around Cape Cook for it. It worked out nicely. We’re on the south side now, tucked into Columbia Cove under spectacular blue skies and sunshine.
We stowed the dinghy on deck for the last several days to get us around the rougher sections, then re-inflated it when we got here. Kevin helped me mount the outboard and then Vi and I headed out to explore this lovely bay while Kevin stayed on board to enjoy some time to himself.
On our dinghy voyage, Vi and I conquered a small island in the middle of the bay and circumnavigated it on foot. The tide was high so it didn’t take very long. The bay also has a lot of floating log debris and some healthy kelp beds.
We passed another sailboat today! They were headed the other way and the first we’ve seen since passing a boat on the way to Bull Harbour more than a week ago.
We finished the last of the boat-made bread today, so Vi whipped up another loaf using the sourdough starter that Lavanya gave us. Three cheers for Vi and Lavanya! Tomorrow we have a short day to get to the West Nook of the Brunsby Islands.
Awesome Cranberry Muffins - 5/26
It was a short mileage day today, ten miles or so to get out of the Klaskino Inlet and into the Klaskish Basin via a steep, narrow channel with plenty of depth. The book talks about anchoring between mooring buoys if they’re all taken. We see no buoys and no boats, just a large bay with good shelter from the winds out on the ocean and bald eagles chirping from the tree tops. It’s a very pristine anchorage. They all are out here.
Arriving early gave me some time to take a shot at a few maintenance items on my list. Kevin helped me look into a solution to a problem with the radar. It thinks it’s working, but nothing is displayed on the plotter. Since it was working the week before we left, I was hoping for an easy fix. Kevin gave me a belay while I climbed up the mast and pulled the cover of the radar unit. Then he turned it on briefly so I could see if it was rotating properly. I hid behind the mast to keep from being irradiated by it. It was rotating ok, but there is no way to tell if it’s not transmitting or not receiving. I’ll have to look into having it tested when I get back. Thank goodness we have AIS. It’ll allow us to avoid the worst (big and fast) of the commercial traffic if the fog rolls in. And it will allow them to see us.
While Kevin and I were making no progress with the radar, Vi made cranberry muffins. They are awesome! At least one of us got something done.
OK, I did top off the battery levels. Quijote has a starting battery and a 400amp hour house battery and they all need a little water now and then. We typically use around 20 amp-hours a day and recharge while motoring, which has been most of the time on this trip.
Tomorrow we go around the Brooks Peninsula.
Arriving early gave me some time to take a shot at a few maintenance items on my list. Kevin helped me look into a solution to a problem with the radar. It thinks it’s working, but nothing is displayed on the plotter. Since it was working the week before we left, I was hoping for an easy fix. Kevin gave me a belay while I climbed up the mast and pulled the cover of the radar unit. Then he turned it on briefly so I could see if it was rotating properly. I hid behind the mast to keep from being irradiated by it. It was rotating ok, but there is no way to tell if it’s not transmitting or not receiving. I’ll have to look into having it tested when I get back. Thank goodness we have AIS. It’ll allow us to avoid the worst (big and fast) of the commercial traffic if the fog rolls in. And it will allow them to see us.
While Kevin and I were making no progress with the radar, Vi made cranberry muffins. They are awesome! At least one of us got something done.
OK, I did top off the battery levels. Quijote has a starting battery and a 400amp hour house battery and they all need a little water now and then. We typically use around 20 amp-hours a day and recharge while motoring, which has been most of the time on this trip.
Tomorrow we go around the Brooks Peninsula.
Hot Showers, Big Seas and a Little Company - 5/25
After slurping down cream of wheat with yogurt and berries for breakfast, we headed back to Winter Harbour to fill our water tanks. I discovered yesterday that the high pressure cylinder on the water maker has sprung a leak, so rather than desalinating, it just fills the bilge with water. Then, because it flushes with fresh water when it’s done, the water make has become a water user. Dang. A fix will have to wait until I get back home and can buy parts. In the mean time, we have two weeks before we arrive in Tofino, so it was semi-essential that we stop for water in Winter Harbor. The tanks hold 110 gallons, plenty for the two weeks to Tofino. And… since we’ll already be there, we pooled our resources and came up with enough loonies to take showers. Yay! (Three cheers to Kevin for finding eight of the nine loonies needed for three showers.)
The weather cleared nicely in the afternoon; the sun was out anyway. It was after 2pm by the time we we’d made our way to Winter Harbour and were done with the place. A motor-boater at the fuel dock said it was “pretty rough out there.” They’d gone out in the ocean to do some fishing and were turned back by big seas and high winds. We only had twenty miles or so to get to the night’s anchorage, so we decided to give it a shot none the less.
I began to wander if it was a mistake almost immediately, when we were hit by some big waves on the stern quarter, picking us up and dropping us ten feet or so pretty quickly. Our direction with respect to the swell made the going a little difficult, but the swell was more consistent than when we were last out there, even if it was bigger, and the chop wasn’t quite as bad, even though the wind was blowing pretty well in the mid to upper twenties. So we kept going, got into something like a rhythm and didn’t have any trouble. Kevin ended up taking the helm for most of it. I think he was having a good time with it. I made a concerted effort to hydrate while we were at the dock with an unlimited water supply, so I had to go down into the head to pee several times. It was kind of like trying to pee in a clothes dryer.
Vi is now whipping up something for dinner from North Africa while Kevin and I kick back and enjoy a tranquil cove in fading sunlight. There’s a fishing boat anchored with us tonight. It’s nice to finally have a little company.
The weather cleared nicely in the afternoon; the sun was out anyway. It was after 2pm by the time we we’d made our way to Winter Harbour and were done with the place. A motor-boater at the fuel dock said it was “pretty rough out there.” They’d gone out in the ocean to do some fishing and were turned back by big seas and high winds. We only had twenty miles or so to get to the night’s anchorage, so we decided to give it a shot none the less.
I began to wander if it was a mistake almost immediately, when we were hit by some big waves on the stern quarter, picking us up and dropping us ten feet or so pretty quickly. Our direction with respect to the swell made the going a little difficult, but the swell was more consistent than when we were last out there, even if it was bigger, and the chop wasn’t quite as bad, even though the wind was blowing pretty well in the mid to upper twenties. So we kept going, got into something like a rhythm and didn’t have any trouble. Kevin ended up taking the helm for most of it. I think he was having a good time with it. I made a concerted effort to hydrate while we were at the dock with an unlimited water supply, so I had to go down into the head to pee several times. It was kind of like trying to pee in a clothes dryer.
Vi is now whipping up something for dinner from North Africa while Kevin and I kick back and enjoy a tranquil cove in fading sunlight. There’s a fishing boat anchored with us tonight. It’s nice to finally have a little company.
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